Defining beauty is a philosophical problem that mankind has debated for centuries. According to Plato, beauty is “that quality, or those qualities in bodies, by which they cause love, or some passion similar to it”, whereas Aristotle had a more quantitative vision of it: “the chief forms of beauty are order and symmetry and definiteness, which the mathematical sciences demonstrate in a special degree”. And indeed the perfection of proportions is what dominated the concept of beauty during the classical period.
During the age of reason however the concept of beauty expanded, as philosophers realised that it encompasses both objective and subjective aspects: for something to be considered beautiful it needs to have certain characteristics, but it requires at the same time an emotional response in the observer. This is why beauty is sometimes said to reside “in the eye of the beholder”. And this is where things get complicated, because one could argue that the ability of recognising beauty can be trained. But if this is true, then we have to admit that beauty depends on the judgment of other people too, that influence us or from whom we can learn. As such, beauty becomes an intersubjective category, which cannot be defined by fully subjective or objective attributes only.
This is where NO BABES comes in, a Belgian model agency that aims at redefining beauty ideals and breaking barriers by creating a space where people of all backgrounds, ethnicities, body types, gender identities, ages and religions are celebrated. “I believe that the relationship between beauty standards and the fashion industry is complex and bidirectional”, Morgane Gielen, lifestyle and fashion photographer and founder, in 2022, of NO BABES, tells us. “Beauty standards are not created in isolation by the fashion industry, nor do they develop entirely autonomously in society. Instead, there is a dynamic interplay between the two”, she explains. “The fashion industry undoubtedly plays a significant role in shaping beauty standards. Through its powerful visual and cultural influence, the industry can promote certain aesthetics, body types, and styles that become widely accepted as the norm. However, the fashion industry also responds to evolving ideas of beauty that emerge within society. For example, the growing demand for diversity and inclusivity in recent years has led many fashion brands to feature a wider range of models and to celebrate different forms of beauty. In essence, beauty standards are a result of a continuous feedback loop between the fashion industry and societal attitudes”.
NO BABES is actually an acronym that stands for Natural and raw, Open minded and inclusive, Bold and honest, Authentic and real, Brave and diverse, Empowering and progressive and Safe space and community. “It all started as an Instagram account, which evolved into a photobook, an exhibition in Ghent, a TV column on VRT’s ‘Iedereen Beroemd’ called #nofilter and finally the agency”, Morgane says. And she is now determined to making it a force for good in the fashion industry, by transforming inclusivity into a new standard. This is an urgent goal considering that at least 40% of models develop some form of eating disorder, according to a Model Health Inquiry study, or that people with disabilities rarely come into view even though 16% of the overall population, meaning one person in six, deals with some form of disability, based on World Health Organisation data. Luckily, support for Morgane’s vision is growing: in the first two years of operation NO BABES already managed to work with dozens of organisations, including prominent ones like Zalando, Teufel, Belfius and Samsung. And the demand for inclusive models is growing.
“Despite this progress, we still encounter significant obstacles”, Morgane reflects. “One of the main challenges is tokenism. Many brands and companies want to appear inclusive by featuring a limited number of diverse models in their campaigns, but this often does not translate into a genuine, sustained commitment to diversity. Additionally, there remains a pervasive preference for certain types of diversity that still align closely with traditional beauty norms. This means that while there might be more representation of different body types, skin tones and gender expressions, those chosen often still fit a palatable version of beauty that does not fully break away from conventional standards. To truly shift the paradigm, there needs to be a deeper, more authentic commitment from the industry to not only include, but also celebrate all forms of beauty in a consistent and meaningful way”.
To facilitate such development, NO BABES offers not only inclusive models and creatives, but also, as extras, additional services, like shoot days, consulting services for the creation of inclusive campaigns and training sessions for models. An effort that can contribute to profound societal changes, since the perception of beauty influences so many aspects of peoples’ lives: multiple studies have indeed found that students considered good-looking get higher grades, people low in physical attractiveness tend to have a lower income and individuals not conforming to traditional standards of beauty end up having a higher propensity for criminal activity, possibly because of social rejection. The impact of beauty and its definition are thus crucial in any society. So much so that an anti-discrimination law was passed in Belgium in 2007, stating that no one is allowed to discriminate against people based on their physical or genetical characteristics. An ideal that still needs to be realised and that infuses the work of NO BABES.
But Morgane has even bigger ambitions: “I am currently renovating a building in Kampenhout, which will soon become the first home office of NO BABES and a brand-new photo studio”, she confesses. “I can’t wait for it to be finished!”. Her journey and that of her agency has just started. And it promises to be a groundbreaking one.
